The last day in Caen — off to the Musée de Normandie, which tells story of life in Normandie from pre-bronze age to the early 20th century, with models of farms, archeological artifacts, pottery and glassware, clothing, the story of mining and smelting, and of cider making from the early 15th century. Outside is the Jardins des Herbes with plants for spice and medicinal purposes which were used for centuries.

Then to the Cafe Ty-Coz for a banana-chocolat crepe, after which it's back to the hotel where I thanked my hosts for their hospitality, and told them it was the perfect place for me to get used to life in France and to re-learn my French, which I now speak with much less forethought than a week ago. Then it's back to the Hertz office, where the bill for the car is slightly more than the bill for the hotel. I'm on-budget without the expense of the car, so I'll have to find a way to compensate for that.

It's a short walk across the street to the Gare SNCF, and when the train comes I'm pleased to see it's a Bombardier electric unit. The front two cars have first-class sections which have quite comfortable seats with writing tables so I can catch up in my journal. The ride is quick and smooth, and on the way out of Caen I recognize the agricultural warehouse of Commune de Cruilly, and I can see the church spire in Authie, but not the abbaye Ardenne.

We stop at Bayeux, Lison, St. Lo (of US army fame), Coutance (now we are on a bumpy single track line), and Folligny. Many of these towns have a walled old town on the heights, and it must have been difficult for the American army to secure them. They sure would have been tank traps, which explains why the Canadian Staghound armoured cars were successfully used.

It is rather cold in the car, but at least I'm not in the 2nd class car which is very crowded with kids, bicycles, and dogs and cats in carry-kennels. It's a zoo, Jane. I'm delighted to see a whole herd of horses at a watering hole and I recall information at the Musée Normandie that two-thirds of all thoroughbreds, and half of all racehorses born in France are born in Normandy.

En route I am reading Constantine and the Conversion of Europe, and it's odd to think that by 324 AD the Romans under Constantine ruled an empire that stretched from the Red Sea to Hadrian's wall, and that 730 years later William had a hard time controlling Normandy and fending off the Dukes of Picardy and Brittany. I suppose it's all a matter of personal will, political organization, military technology, and the strength of your enemies. Simple, eh?

Next stop Avranches, and after that I can see the spire of Mont St. Michel in the distance, before stopping at Pontorson/Mont St. Michel, and we are now in Brittany. Last stop is Dol de Bretagne where I change trains. There is a loo in a separate building requiring a €0.50 coin which fortunately I have . The loo is an automatic flushing/washing/drying system which leaves the seat wet (I was not sitting on it at the time). There is a wash basin but no hand towels or air dryer.

The train pulls in at 7:38 and leaves at 7:39 — it's a 4-car unit, one of which is an engine. So far all trains are electric. It's a quick 14-minute trip to St. Malo and of course there's a free loo on board.

I am greeted by my hosts Sondrine and Michel, and we drive via the old town, which reminds me of the old town in Quebec city, to their house where we have a nice dinner and lots of conversation, mostly in French. I can't help remarking about how many words are the same in French and English. Saturday and Sunday we are at the tai chi workshop (accent on work), and we ended on Saturday night at 10:30 and went home tired. I met lots of people from all over Europe, and I'll be looking up my friend Jaap when I get to Amsterdam, as they have tai chi classes on Wednesday evenings, and he says he will show me around a bit.

Saturday was a nice sunny day with a high of about 24 degrees ( I hear the weather in Vancouver is the pits).

On Sunday it is more overcast with cloudbursts. The rain drums on the corregated plastic roof of the gymnasium we are in, and drowns out the voice of the instructor (she is Joée from Quebec City), then the rain stops, the sun comes out, and we hear the church bells, the birds singing, and the sheep next door bleating. Totally rural.

The team of volunteers has worked miracles with billets, food, and cleaning up. The workshop (atelier) is given almost entirely in French, with a couple of people translating for the English speakers. I find I try to listen to both, so I stick with the French version.

Back at the Davy's we have a nice dinner with two of their daughters (of six kids) — Annelle (14) and Samantha (18). A long conversation ensues, in which we talk about the good and the bad in France and Canada. People here are very concerned about their job security (what else is new?), since the French government has a high level of debt while at the same time the European Union is forcing France to break up the state monopolies such as electricity, gas, and telephone to allow foreign companies to compete. Both Sondrine and Michel work for Electricité de France, and it is a concern for them. Since they have a flat rate calling plan I call Tia and we have a half-hour conversation. I also get a chance to catch up on e-mails like this one, and even do some laundry. What great hosts.

Postscript on Monday morning: Sondrine suggests I stay over one more night to simplify my travels. I'm bowled over! It makes things much simpler from a timing standpoint and for security of my luggage, so I'll be going to Mont St. Michel today and I'll catch the train to Rennes tomorrow. Perfect! This also gives me the opportunity to send this e-mail and the previous one, so now I'm caught up to date.

Further e-mails in a couple of days. We will have lunch here soon, then off to Mont St. Michel.

TTFN, y'all.

Mike